And from that original burst of energy - which also propelled the openings of Patsy’s, Totonno’s, and John’s of Bleecker Street, all by baker-disciples of Gennaro Lombardi - the city’s pizzaioli continued to innovate, creating new varieties uniquely suited to the tastes and demands of customers. Olive oil keeps it nice and supple.Pizza as the world knows it was invented, based on Italian models, in New York City around 1905 at Lombardi’s in Little Italy, though we had precursors that were closer to focaccia late in the previous century. Without oil, a New York pie would dry out and toughen during its 12 to 15 minute stay in the oven. By coating individual flour granules, oils will effectively lower the maximum level of gluten formation in a given dough, making the resultant baked crust slightly denser and notably more tender than a fat-free dough. Aside from adding a bit of flavor and a little activity-boost for the yeast, it also aids in browning-essential if you want to get a nicely browned crust at relatively low oven temperatures.
Also high in protein, it readily develops gluten (the protein matrix that gives bread structure). New York pizza dough, on the other hand, is generally made from American bread flour. It absorbs water easily and bakes up with a super-thin crisp layer surrounding a moist, airy interior. The flour in a classic Neapolitan dough is a high-protein, finely milled Italian Tipo "00," referred to as "double-oh" by the cognoscenti.
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